Bodega Cueva / Mariano Taberna

La Portera, Valencia

Humble master Mariano Taberna makes a range of delicious, terroir-reflective wines from his base west of Valencia in the historic D.O. of Utiel Reqena.

The Bodega Cueva has been producing wine since the 18th century and Mariano has been the custodian here for more than 20 years. His vineyards are largely planted to local varieties bobal and tardana, along with plantings of macabeo, tempranillo and syrah. His red wines are produced from vines with considerable age, more than 65 years on average, with the average age of the white varieties around 35 years.

The soils here are dominated by limestone which lends the wines their distinct freshness and the climate is relatively severe. Summers are hot and dry though the diurnal temperature range is dramatic and the proximity to the coast (70km) means that cooling breezes are a constant feature of the climate. All of this combines to make a wine producing area that just makes sense.

In the winery, Mariano works with the same level of care as vignerons like Karl Schnabel. The wines are totally precise and represent their terroir and respective varieties with complete clarity. The whites are fermented with varying degrees of maceration and the reds are fermented predominantly in tank and often with significant proportions of whole bunches and berries. All the wines are characterised by freshness, precision and a sense of levity.

 

Information on previous wines

  • Syrah, garnacha and bobal, grown on limestone and vinified in stainless steel

    2018 From a cooler year. Medium-bodied and sleek with freshness from the limestone.

    2017 From a sunny year. Medium-bodied and sleek with freshness from the limestone.

  • 2017 Old-vine Bobal grown on limestone and vinified in stainless steel. From a good, sunny year, resulting in slightly fruitier wines.

  • Bobal and marselan grown on limestone and vinified in stainless steel

    2018 From a cooler year. Medium-bodied and sleek with freshness from the limestone.

  • Syrah grown on limestone and fermented in stainless steel

    2018 From a cooler year resulting in wines with a little more steeliness.

    2017 From a good, sunny year, resulting in slightly fruitier wines.

    2016 A high proportion of whole bunches. Relatively delicate extraction resulting in a medium bodied and silken wine with pure, fruity and floral flavours.

  • 2018 Tardana and macabeu grown on limestone and vinified in stainless steel. From a cooler year.

  • Macabeu and tardana grown on limestone. Destemmed, macerated through ferment and pressed off just before dryness. Elevage in tank

    2018 From a cooler year resulting in wines with a bit more steeliness.

  • 2018 Macabeu and tardana, both lightly macerated and then blended with the lees of the red variety bobal. The fermenting wine was run to bottle to finish primary fermentation, rested on lees and then disgorged. Restrained fruit, with a savoury edge thanks to the varieties used.

    2017 This cuvée was called “Enjoy” in this vintage. Round and fruity, with vivid peachy flavours.

  • 2018 From a cooler year. Syrah grown on limestone and fermented in stainless steel with primary fermentation completed in bottle.

  • 2018 From a cooler year. Bobal grown on limestone and fermented in stainless steel with primary fermentation completed in bottle.

  • 2018 Sparkling moscatel and macabeu, which was lightly macerated during fermentation. A cooler year resulting in a little more steeliness than the 2017.

    2017 100% moscatel, picked with the aim of capturing delicious fruit but before the ripeness moves towards rich exoticism. Fruit was lightly macerated prior to bottling.

  • 2017 Ginger and grape mistelle.